[A] New Puppy In The Home
Article copyright by: Karen Clark, Versailles Kennels UK

When your puppy comes home, it is important to be prepared for many training opportunities.

Puppy training basics during the first week the puppy is home is critical. It is obvious that you need certain physical items such as a dog bed or crate, food and water bowls, puppy chow, collar, leash, toys, etc. Equally as important, all family members must decide and agree on routine, responsibility and rules.

The first few days are extremely important. Enthusiasm and emotions are up. Everyone wants to feed the puppy, play with the puppy and hold the puppy. Pre-established rules are easily broken. Everyone agreed that puppy will sleep in her crate but as soon as she’s home, someone melts and insists that puppy will sleep in bed. Everyone previously agreed not to let puppy jump up on them, but in the excitement, no one even notices that puppy is jumping up.No one sleeps the first night. Puppy wins and gets to sleep in bed. The next morning we find puppy has eliminated all over the bed. So the following night puppy is banned to her crate and screams all night. No one sleeps tonight either.
Grouchiness sets in; enthusiasm is down. No one wants to get up at the pre-agreed upon early morning feeding time. How are we going to house train puppy? How are we going to sleep with her constant whining?
Your new puppy has just been taken away from her mum and litter-mates. She is vulnerable and impressionable. What she needs now is security and routine. Set up a small room to be her very own special haven for the next couple of months. Paper the entire floor and put her food/water bowls and bed in one corner. Scatter her toys everywhere.

Play with her quietly and gently. Don’t flood her with attention and activity. If she looks like she wants to sleep, leave her alone. Puppies need lots of sleep. The reason most dogs and puppies jump on people is because they are happy and excited to see them! Jumping, leaping and bouncing are ways your dog shows affection and receives attention. The behavior is usually learned while they are puppies. When a puppy is very young, we usually sit on the floor, let them wiggle into our laps and allow them to lick and nuzzle up close to our face. When they come bounding over to greet us, jumping and stretching up to our knees, again we bend down, pick them up and exchange hugs and kisses. All this time we are training and rewarding the puppy for jumping up. Eventually we decide we don’t like this behavior anymore. What used to be cute is now obnoxious and even dangerous if the dog is jumping up on children or the elderly.

The jumping problem continues…
Our inconsistency perpetuates the problem. Some of the time we tolerate the jumping and ignore it. Other times we reward the behavior by exchanging enthusiastic greetings. But when we’re dressed up and the dog’s paws are muddy, it’s a different story. Reprimanding the dog for jumping up usually does not work. Either the dog misunderstands the reprimand as praise or he gets even more excited and the jumping gets worse. If the reprimand is severe enough, the dog may stop jumping at that moment but it doesn’t solve the problem altogether; and it certainly is not a very nice thing to do. It’s very similar to a person approaching you with a big smile, arm extended to exchange a hand-shake and you bopping the person in the nose. Even if your dog learns that jumping up on you is not a good idea, he will usually get away with jumping up on everyone else.

What To Expect When House Training

Unless you can monitor your puppy 24 hours a day, don’t expect the house training process to be completed until your puppy is at least 6 months old. It’s normal for a young puppy to be a little ‘input-output’ machine. Since puppies are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! They also have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can’t ‘hold it’ as long as adult dogs.

House Training When You Are NOT Home

Confine your puppy to a small, ‘puppy-proofed’ room and paper the entire floor. If the access area is too big you will jjust encourage pup to soil in that area.Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don’t get upset; just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.

Passive House Training or Paper Training

While your puppy is confined, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that area only. If he ever misses the paper, then you’ve reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area or even the entire room.

Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you’ve left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers only an inch a day. If puppy misses the paper again, then you’re moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don’t be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire room. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.

Whining, Howling, Barking and Other Dog and Puppy Vocalizations

Whining, crying, barking, and howling often result when a dog is left alone. Puppies will whine and cry when separated from their owners. The puppy is afraid he is being abandoned by his pack and is sounding the alarm so that he can be rescued. The reason excessive whining continues is because the dog has learned that whining, crying or barking gets whatever he wants – attention, food, affection. Often what starts out as a demand whining soon becomes an unconscious whining habit. To prevent an annoying whining habit, teach your dog to accept short periods of confinement before leaving him alone for long periods of time. Spend time with your dog in the area where he is left and show him that this is a fun place to be. If he starts whining or howling when you leave, don’t rush back to let him out or reassure him. If you do, he will soon learn that he can control you with his whining blackmail. However, if barking, whining or howling continues then he probably is not yet comfortable in his confinement area. Spend a little more time with him there. Then when you leave, it he continues barking, whining or howling, give him a loud and stern ‘NO!’ After he has been quiet for a few moments, return and praise him lavishly. Practice leaving and returning several times so he becomes accustomed to your departures and realizes that you are not abandoning him forever. He will see that you will return and there’s nothing to worry about. Practice leaving him for longer and longer periods of time.

More on your new pup at home:

Bringing home a puppy and introducing her to your home is very exciting for everyone. The only one who may be anxious about the situation will be the puppy. If you handle your puppy properly when she arrives, she will quickly relax and want to settle into her new home.

Prior to bringing your new puppy into your home, you should puppy proof it. Take a look at your home from the puppy's viewpoint. Does that potted plant sitting in front of the glass door look tempting? You may want to consider moving it to a higher place. What about your favorite collection of teddy bears, or magazines you have in a basket by the sofa? They will most certainly raise the curiosity of your new puppy. As you move these things out of your puppy's reach, remember it is only for a short time. Once your new puppy has learned her place in the family, you can put your things back where they go. Your life should never be dictated by your puppy. However, by removing these curiosity objects from the start, it will allow you to work with your puppy on the basic training she will need to learn. 

It is important to understand that as much as you want your new puppy to be a part of your family, your puppy is still an animal. She will take her cues from her environment. If she is allowed to have free run of the home and access to everything, you are teaching her that she is in charge. Dogs have instincts. The main instinct of dogs is to live in a pack. Your new puppy will assume her new family is her pack. If she picks up the clues that she is her own boss and she can do what she wants, whenever she wants, she is being taught she is the leader of her pack. It is much easier on everyone, including the dog, if she learns from the moment she enters the home that she is not the leader and dictator of the family.

One mistake people make is letting their puppy sleep in a utility room, or kitchen. Dogs are from the wolf family, and really prefer to have a den all their own. Some people assume placing a dog in a crate is cruel. On the contrary, if crates are introduced properly, they will be much loved by the puppy. When planning for a new puppy, do not go out and buy the biggest crate you can find for your puppy thinking she will grow into it. This is the worst mistake owner's make. A crate should be large enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Puppies usually learn from their mothers to not soil in their bed area. If the crate is too large, your puppy may designate a portion of her crate for sleeping, and the other half for soiling. You should also never place your puppy's food and water in her crate.

When your puppy is first introduced to the crate, do not simply put her inside and lock the door. This will greatly disturb her. (You should place the crate in a room in your home where the family gathers. You should not expect the puppy to walk through the entire house to the back guest bedroom to nap. By having the crate in close proximity to the family, the puppy will feel as if she is still hanging out with her pack, even if she is inside her crate sleeping.) Place the crate where it will stay, and simply open the door. You can place a towel in the bottom, and a chew toy inside if you want. Some puppy's are very curious. They will simply walk inside. Others may be a little more shy with the crate. Give your puppy time to warm up to the crate. Once she does enter the crate, praise her. You may want to give her crate a name. When she enters the crate, you can repeat the crates name, and give her a treat. 

After your puppy has warmed up to her crate and has entered and 
exited it a few times, you can close the door. She may whine and 
paw at the door. She may even start yelping and barking. This 
is okay. Do not let her out. After about ten minutes, you can 
open the door and pick her up. Walk her directly to the area 
designated for pottying. You should never let your puppy out of 
her crate and allow her to follow you through the house to go 
outside. Most puppies will simply squat and go where they 
please. Once you are outside, set her down. You would then 
encourage her to potty. Choose a couple of words such as, "Go 
potty," of "Do your business." She will not have a clue as to 
what you are saying, at first. But, after repeated attempts and 
with being given a puppy treat and praise, she will learn what 
those words mean. Most puppies will need to go out at least every 
hour during the first few days to familiarize them with their 
potty area. This is a chance for you to catch them doing their 
business where they need to. Lavish them with praise.

The first few nights may make you wonder why you even brought the 
puppy home. The repeated yelping and whining coming from the 
crate can seriously upset many adults who need their sleep. You 
should look at your new puppy as the baby in the family. Puppies 
less than four months of age may need to go out once during the 
night. When she does, pick up your pup and take her to her 
designated spot. After she has relieved herself, place her 
promptly back into the crate. You should never play with your 
puppy during the night time hours. This will only encourage her 
to keep the yelping up. After a few days, your puppy will adjust 
to the night time patterns of her "pack" and everyone will get 
more rest. Most dogs are able to make it through the entire night 
without a potty break around 18 weeks.

Some individuals may think it is harsh to scold a puppy. These 
individuals may be the same people who have a dog running wild in 
their home within a year. Dogs which aren't disciplined can wreck 
havoc on a home. You may return to find a shredded couch, chewed 
up shoes, and garbage strewn all over the place. If there are 
other pets in the home, you should also consider their feelings. 
They will most likely be intimidated by such a tyrant, and fights 
could commence while you are away. 

If you catch your puppy chewing on something she shouldn't, a 
firm "no" is usually enough to stop her antics. As with other 
forms of training, this may take a few days for her to learn. 
This is why you were advised to move precious things away. Some 
people have a rolled up newspaper to swat the puppy with if they 
refuse to heed a "no." The rolled up newspaper does not hurt. It 
is simply loud, and it teaches the dog you are the alpha in the 
family, and not her. If she were truly in a dog pack, her alpha 
would nip her soundly. So, don't feel as if you are mistreating 
her. In fact, most puppies seem to feel more secure when they 
know their place.

The most important thing you can do with your puppy besides 
introducing a crate immediately, instilling a potty routine, and 
teaching her what "no" means, is to build the relationship with 
your new puppy. Get on the floor and play with her. The bond 
will grow between you and she will love you. This will make your 
puppy want to please you and be obedient as well. This goes a 
long way when you start teaching her other basic commands such as 
"stay" and "come."

Ian White is founder of http://www.Dog-Breeders.biz . 
This extensive online directory includes listings by private 
breeders, kennel clubs, and occasional hobby or family breeders. 
Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate 
breeders. Dog-Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for 
sale with puppy wanted entries, with daily email notifications 
to all parties.

Puppy Training that is Safe for Your Puppy
Kathleen Amaro 

Puppy training can and should begin the day you bring your puppy
home, but only if it’s approached in a safe manner for your puppy
and his sensitivities. House-training your puppy can be a
rewarding and non-stressful experience when you shape behavior
from a series of positive experiences, instead of attempting to
correct unwanted behaviors before your puppy has a chance to
learn what you DO want.

Trying to teach your dog what NOT to do is not conducive to
healthy, reliable learning. Your puppy must have the opportunity
to learn the behaviors that you DO want which will be
incompatible with behaviors that you don't want.

Never say, "No" or yell the word "Nooo!" if your dog doesn't
understand something while training, and/or fails to perform on
cue. Simply try the exercise again and if that doesn't work, go
back to a previous step. Many times you will need to settle for
rewarding just a partial behavior and work up in steps from there
until the whole behavior is performed.

Here's an example. You catch your dog chewing your $90 shoes. By
running over and screaming, “No!” you've done one of two things:

1. You've either rewarded him for chewing by giving him
attention; this is especially true if you give chase while he’s
running with your shoes; or

2. You've scared the bejeebers out of him and he learns that it's
not safe to relieve stress and/or sore teeth and gums when you
are present. Therefore he must do it when you're gone in order to
keep himself safe and not upset you. The dog has no malice in
these actions, he's just following instinct.

This applies to crate training as well, (if the crate is
introduced and used appropriately), in that it can prevent
accidents from happening during the housetraining process while
repeatedly giving your puppy the opportunity to be successful at
eliminating outdoors. His repeated success builds his confidence
and instills in his mind that the outdoors is the only place to
even consider eliminating.

This kind of housetraining is not based on fear, which inhibits
the learning process but on repeated successes. This makes the
desired behavior more reliable and the puppy more confident and
able to learn.

Training your puppy using positive reinforcement and other
healthy behavior shaping techniques insures that his puppy
training will not negatively affect his personality. This type of
healthy interaction with your puppy during his first year will
enable you to build a cooperative bond and to have a well
mannered but confident companion by the time he reaches maturity.

Kathleen Amaro is the owner of
Her instantly downloadable ebook 25 Secrets to Raising the
Perfect Puppy, not only tells you how to raise the perfect puppy,
but how to get him perfectly potty trained using only positive
and healthy puppy training techniques.

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