02-28-2007, 11:55 PM
Choosing The Right Grooming Equipment PART 1
INTRODUCTION
Having the right grooming equipment on hand can make home grooming your dog much easier and enjoyable for both you and your dog. There are a dizzying variety of tools and products to assist in dog grooming. There are combs with fine teeth, combs with medium teeth, and combs with coarse teeth, combs with handles and without. There are brushes with short metal pins, brushes with slanted metal pins, brushes with flexible plastic pins, oval-shaped brushes and rectangular brushes. There are shedding blades for thick-coated dogs that shed gobs of undercoat and nubby gloves for smooth-coated breeds.
There are shampoos and rinses and gels and whiteners and conditioners and supplements to clean and soften coats.
A basic home grooming kit for a long-coated dog should include a soft wire slicker brush, a comb that has both fine and coarse teeth, a Universal brush and mat comb for dealing with the tangles that do form, and an oil-based conditioner that is applied before brushing or combing the coat. The mat comb has long teeth that are inserted into the mat rocked in a sawing motion to loosen the hairs.
A kit for medium-coated or short-coated dogs should include a slicker brush or flexible-pin brush. Bony dogs should be brushed with a soft brush or one with blunt bristles. Feathery hairs on the legs, ears, and tail should be combed. A nubby glove or coarse rag is suitable for grooming faces and for stimulating the skin and conditioning the coat on short-coated dogs.
PART 2
HOW TO SELECT THE RIGHT COMB OR BRUSH
Having the right grooming equipment on hand can make home grooming your dog much easier and enjoyable for both you and your dog. There are a dizzying variety of tools and products to assist in dog grooming. There are combs with fine teeth, combs with medium teeth, and combs with coarse teeth, combs with handles and without. There are brushes with short metal pins, brushes with slanted metal pins, brushes with flexible plastic pins, oval-shaped brushes and rectangular brushes. There are shedding blades for thick-coated dogs that shed gobs of undercoat and nubby gloves for smooth-coated breeds.
There are shampoos and rinses and gels and whiteners and conditioners and supplements to clean and soften coats.
A basic home grooming kit for a long-coated dog should include a soft wire slicker brush, a comb that has both fine and coarse teeth, a Universal brush and mat comb for dealing with the tangles that do form, and an oil-based conditioner that is applied before brushing or combing the coat. The mat comb has long teeth that are inserted into the mat rocked in a sawing motion to loosen the hairs.
A kit for medium-coated or short-coated dogs should include a slicker brush or flexible-pin brush. Bony dogs should be brushed with a soft brush or one with blunt bristles. Feathery hairs on the legs, ears, and tail should be combed. A nubby glove or coarse rag is suitable for grooming faces and for stimulating the skin and conditioning the coat on short-coated dogs.
PART 3
SO WHY ALL THESE TOOLS FOR COMBING, BRUSHING
Coats come in a wide range of types and textures. Soft, silky, fine, dense, coarse, straight or curly hair varies immensely, even between pets of the same breed. The prepared groomer will have several varieties of combs and brushes on hand to deal with so many kinds of coatsââ¬â and will know how to use them properly.
For short-haired breeds such as Beagles or Dalmatians, use a rubber brush or a bristle brush. Soft rubber bristles will pull out loose hair. A bristle brush should be fairly stiff and works best when used with the lie of the coat. Bristles move the oils from the skin to the hair shaft as you brush, leaving a shiny, smooth coat. A medium/fine comb will work like a comb used on your own hair, catching and pulling out the loose hair and dirt.
For long-haired dogs that need to be scissored, such as the Bichon Frise or Kerry Blue Terrier, a slicker brush should be used to untangle and remove loose hair. Use a pin brush only if there are no mats. Depending on the hair type, choose a medium/coarse or coarse comb. If the pet is seriously matted, a mat comb or electric detangler may be needed. A curved slicker with stiff pins will untangle more effectively and will pull out more undercoat, but will also require more care in order to not brush-burn the pet.
For breeds with long silky coats, a slicker brush (or, if there are no mats, a pin brush) should be usedââ¬â along with a medium/coarse or a coarse comb to check for any matting in the coat. For a serious matting problem, try a mat comb or a long pin rake.
For double-coated breeds, a number of different brushes can be used: a wire slicker to pull out the loose hair, a pin brush to untangle and smooth, or an undercoat rake or a mat comb to help thin out the undercoat. A moulting comb can also be used to remove loose hair and tidy the outer coat. Depending on the hair type, a medium/fine or a medium/coarse comb should also be used.
For sporting breeds such as Setters and Spaniels, a pin brush can be used to untangle slightly matted coats, and a wire slicker will remove loose, dead hair. A medium/coarse or coarse comb can be used to untangle and neaten the coat. If the coat is seriously matted or tangled, you may need to use a mat comb or a long pin rake. Results often depend not so much on what you use as on the way that you use it. Layering, line brushing, and sectioning are the secrets to humane detangling. Grabbing too much hair and pulling too hard causes pain and discomfort to both the animal and the operator.
Repetitive motion injuries are caused by the same action again and again. Vary the motion only slightly, and damage can be prevented. Part of the job can be accomplished by using a tool that has teeth or bristles set parallel to the handle. The wrist and forearm are now operating in a horizontal position. After a while, switch to an implement designed so that the business end is at right angles to the shaft. The angle has changed, and the arm and wrist are working in a more vertical mode. When using either a regular tool or one of a rake design, always keep the wrist in a neutral position. Select handles that fit your palm. Another option is to try ergonomically designed brushes and combs. They have slightly larger than normal handles, providing a more comfortable grip. Position the body in a way so that the tool can be operated without straining the wrist, elbow or shoulder muscles.
The standby of handlers, pin and bristle brushes, are effective on delicate coats. The fine, flowing (show) hair of Afghan Hounds, Maltese Terriers and similarly coated breeds is preserved by using rubber cushioned pin brushes and natural or synthetic bristle brushes.
"Pat and pull" is a technique for using a slicker brush. No pressure is applied on the down stroke. As the brush stroke comes up from the coat, the fine pins hook up a layer of hair and coax tangles out. Slicker brushes are available in different degrees of hardness and various pin sizes and angles. You will need a selection, and remember that they get a lot of wear. Check them regularly and replace brushes with missing and bent pins. Also replace slickers whenever the pins lose their original amount of resistance. If pins are "tired," you will use more strokes to achieve the same effect, costing unnecessary time and physical fatigue.
Superior machining and better metal alloys make combs that glide through hair and lift it for the master stylist to scissor impeccably. Fine, close teeth are needed to seek out fleas and tiny snags. Thickly matted hair can be separated with sturdy, wide-pinned combs.
When necessary, the groomer has to resort to combs with teeth-bladed edges, which will cut as they are pulled through. Some manufacturers suggest using a sawing, rocking motion. Bladed mat combs and splitters are often seen as the only alternative to shaving.
PART 4
HOW TO SELECT THE RIGHT SHEAR
Selecting shears is one of the most important decisions a groomer has to make. Which shear you select has a major impact on the speed and quality of your work, on the health of your hands, and on your wallet! Here are a few facts to help you choose the styles and features that best suit your needs.
There are three types of shears: straight, curved, and thinning. Groomers most often use straight shears. They come in lengths from 4 1/2" to 12", with 8 1/2" being the most common, all-around shears. Most of your scissoring will be done with these on Bichons, Poodles, puppy cuts on Lhasas, etc. Smaller shears of 6 1/2" to 7 1/2" are very good for use on small dogs, or to trim small areas-inside a toy poodle's hind legs, for instance. Very small shears such as the 4 1/2" are useful for close work around the eyes, or for edging just the tips of prick ears. The 9" to 12" shears are great for a puppy cut on an Old English Sheepdog, or a Standard Poodle.
There are two styles of straight shear in the 8" to 10" lengths. The standard shears have a fairly narrow blade that is suitable for most light or fine coats found on breeds such as Bichons, Lhasas, and Poodles. The second style, called an 88 pattern or Filipino style have a wider blade that is most suitable for heavy or coarse coats such as Old English Sheepdogs, Standard Poodles, Portuguese Water Dogs, and Cocker Spaniels in a field trim. Filipino or 88 shears are also useful for groomers who do a lot of pre-bath scissoring as their wider blades seem to hold an edge longer when used often on dirty coats.
Curved shears also come in a variety of lengths from 4" to 12". You may also choose between having a ball tip or not. Ball tips are considered safer, especially around the eyes and feet. Although a good groomer can certainly scissor any shape with a straight shear, including a curve or circle, most find it easier with curved shears. A toy poodle topknot and tail, or setting the angulation of a Bichon's hock are much easier with a 6" or 7" curved shear, while the barrel of a Standard Poodle will go more quickly with a 10" or 12" curved.
Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other. As the blades meet, hair on top of the teeth is cut while some slips between the teeth and is not cut at all. The more teeth, the more hair is cut each stroke. This slight irregularity produces a much more natural look than a straight scissor cut, making them ideal for most rough terrier-type coats. Thinning shears with 40 or more teeth are usually used for thinning off hair (with the grain) or for any blending work. Thinning shears with less teeth tend to be used more for bulk thinning on very thick coats, going underneath the surface and against the grain. Some thinning shears have teeth on both sides. These are used primarily for bulk thinning, although they are used for blending as well. They tend to be a very safe shear, as they are less likely to nick or pinch the skin.
Shears also are available in bent shank and short shank styles. Bent shank shears have shanks that are slightly offset from the blades. This allows you to scissor over an area without having your hand touch the scissored coat. An example is the 8 1/2" Heritage Bent Shank Shears.
Short shank shears have shanks that are shorter than the blades. Examples are Geib's "J" series, and Saber and Stiletto shears. The short shanks allow you to open your shear very wide with very little hand fatigue, thus scissoring more quickly and smoothly than a standard shear. Short shank styles are ideal for groomers with carpel tunnel syndrome.
There are other factors to consider when selecting a shear along with shear type and length. Various features will affect the weight, feel and performance of the grooming shears. The type of material used to manufacture the shears affects its durability and maintenance requirements. Carbon steel is durable and holds an edge, but must be kept oiled to prevent rust. Stainless steel is a high-quality steel combined with chromium to resist rust. Cobalt steel is a type of hardened stainless steel designed to resist chips and nicks. The steel used in shears is also subjected to sub-zero temperatures during the manufacturing process in order to change the composition of the metal making it harder. Thus, shears that are ice tempered, frozen tempered or cold forged will hold an edge longer. Most shears today are cold forged or ice-tempered.
There are also several types of blade edges from which to choose. Honed and razor edges are precisely sharpened to reduce scissor marks on the coat. Corrugated or Serrated edges have tiny grooves to grip the hair as they cut for non-slip scissoring. Hollow ground edges are ground down inside to reduce the weight and have a finer edge for smoother scissoring with less hand fatigue.
Why buy one of the top of the line shears? Are they really worth the money? Most of the higher end shears are made out of much better quality metal, as well as being handcrafted, balanced, and sharper. This means that you will experience less hand fatigue as the shears open and close much more readily, and you will get a nicer finish as the blades can be honed to a razor sharpness due to the quality of the metal. You will also need to have them sharpened less often as they will hold an edge longer. Most people find that high quality shears are a very worthwhile investment.
Probably the most important factor in purchasing shears is your opinion. The large variety of shears available on the market is the result of wide range of personal preferences existing among grooming professionals. Decide what your price range is, look for a shear within it that is suitable for the type of scissoring that you do most, and get the one that cuts well for you and feels good in your hand. The "best" shear is the one you like that helps you groom comfortably and more efficiently.
A Glossary of Shear TermsAdjusting screw: The screw located where the blades hinge that adjusts how much pressure it takes to open and close the shear. Use a shear pliers tool to adjust the tension.
Anodized: A black finish to improve definition when scissoring white or light-colored coats, especially under fluorescent lights.
Ball Bearing: A system of ball bearings around the pivot that allows the shear to open and close effortlessly.
Ball tip: A blunt, rounded tip at the end of a shear that serves as a built-in safety feature for delicate areas. Usually found on curved shears.
Bent Shank: The shank, or finger hole end of the shear, is slightly offset from the cutting blades. This keeps your fingers out of the hair, preventing you from mussing the coat that you have just scissored to perfection.
Carbon Steel: Type of steel used in shear making. Durable and holds an edge, but needs to be kept dry and oiled, as it may rust.
Coatings: Made of Teflon or plastic, a coating resists surface rust, and a high color or pattern in the coating increases visibility of tools and distinguishes them in busy shops.
Cobalt Steel: Very hard type of stainless steel. Resistant to chips and nicks.
Corrugated/Serrated: Blade edge with tiny ground-in grooves to provide non-slip cutting by holding the hair.
Dial adjuster: A dial on the adjuster screw that allows you to change the shear tension by hand without a shear pliers tool.
Filipino: A wide blade style designed for all-purpose, heavy-duty use.
Hollow Ground: A blade with a ground-down inside that reduces weight and gives a sharper edge, resulting in a softer, smoother cut.
Honed/Razor Edge: Edges that are precisely worked to razor sharpness. Reduces scissor marks in coat.
Ice Tempered/Frozen Tempered/Cold Forged: A shear that has been subjected to sub-zero temperatures at a certain point in the manufacturing process. This changes the composition of the metal so that it is much harder and will hold an edge longer. Twenty years ago it was important to look for this quality in a shear, but today it is so commonplace that some manufacturers do not even mention it in their sales copy.
Offset Handle: Instead of the handle being even on both sides, the finger hole side is shorter, so you don't to have to "reach" as much with that finger.
Short Shank: A shear with a short distance from the finger holes to where the blades cross. Reduces hand fatigue, as blades open wider with little hand movement.
Stainless Steel: A high quality steel combined with chromium and other metals to resist rusting.
88 Style: A wide blade, heavy-duty, all-purpose shear.
PART 5
SHAMPOOS & CONDITIONERS FOR SPECIFIC COAT TESTURES
Although a pet's coat type is mainly a product of its genetic background, environment, and ongoing care, we in the pet styling industry have found that a coat's natural texture and feel can be altered to a certain extent with the use of specific shampoos and conditioners. Knowing the proper products to use starts with determining what we want to accomplish through correction or change.
Human cosmetologists deal with either skin or hair. Pet stylists have the dilemma of dealing with bothââ¬â simultaneously! Attention must be given to each area individually without allowing one to adversely affect the other. Dry, damaged coats will benefit from a mild cleansing shampoo and a protein and emollient based conditioner. Proteins can repair a damaged coat by helping to rebuild the cuticle of the hair shaft. An over oily coat will do well with a deep-cleansing shampoo, e.g., one with d-Limonene. Most medicated shampoos also contain deep-cleansing additives, such as salicylic acid, which will benefit both dry and oily skin conditions. When using a medicated shampoo, be sure to condition the dry coat ends after use. Mild shampoos containing additives such as oatmeal or tea tree oil can be used to soothe irritated skin. Some shampoos contain ingredients to aid in adding texture and to build up a soft coat, while certain conditioners contain humectants designed to "plump up" and add body to a thin coat. Silicones add "slickness" and shine while offering a "dirt-repelling" quality. Oils and emollients restore elasticity and prevent breakage. Additives, like color enhancers and optical brighteners, help round out the bill in coat restructuring products.
Conditioning sprays play an important role in continued coat maintenance and care both in the salon and at home. The use of a conditioning "brush-out" spray will not only speed up the brushing process but will also help eliminate static, preventing coat breakage. The wise professional educates her clientele on these home-grooming tips, since doing so will reduce matting and brush-out time. Less matting and a better conditioned coat means time saved in the grooming process.
The proper and continued use of the correct shampoos and conditioners in the salon and at home will help attain and maintain the ultimate goal, the beautifully groomed pet.
INTRODUCTION
Having the right grooming equipment on hand can make home grooming your dog much easier and enjoyable for both you and your dog. There are a dizzying variety of tools and products to assist in dog grooming. There are combs with fine teeth, combs with medium teeth, and combs with coarse teeth, combs with handles and without. There are brushes with short metal pins, brushes with slanted metal pins, brushes with flexible plastic pins, oval-shaped brushes and rectangular brushes. There are shedding blades for thick-coated dogs that shed gobs of undercoat and nubby gloves for smooth-coated breeds.
There are shampoos and rinses and gels and whiteners and conditioners and supplements to clean and soften coats.
A basic home grooming kit for a long-coated dog should include a soft wire slicker brush, a comb that has both fine and coarse teeth, a Universal brush and mat comb for dealing with the tangles that do form, and an oil-based conditioner that is applied before brushing or combing the coat. The mat comb has long teeth that are inserted into the mat rocked in a sawing motion to loosen the hairs.
A kit for medium-coated or short-coated dogs should include a slicker brush or flexible-pin brush. Bony dogs should be brushed with a soft brush or one with blunt bristles. Feathery hairs on the legs, ears, and tail should be combed. A nubby glove or coarse rag is suitable for grooming faces and for stimulating the skin and conditioning the coat on short-coated dogs.
PART 2
HOW TO SELECT THE RIGHT COMB OR BRUSH
Having the right grooming equipment on hand can make home grooming your dog much easier and enjoyable for both you and your dog. There are a dizzying variety of tools and products to assist in dog grooming. There are combs with fine teeth, combs with medium teeth, and combs with coarse teeth, combs with handles and without. There are brushes with short metal pins, brushes with slanted metal pins, brushes with flexible plastic pins, oval-shaped brushes and rectangular brushes. There are shedding blades for thick-coated dogs that shed gobs of undercoat and nubby gloves for smooth-coated breeds.
There are shampoos and rinses and gels and whiteners and conditioners and supplements to clean and soften coats.
A basic home grooming kit for a long-coated dog should include a soft wire slicker brush, a comb that has both fine and coarse teeth, a Universal brush and mat comb for dealing with the tangles that do form, and an oil-based conditioner that is applied before brushing or combing the coat. The mat comb has long teeth that are inserted into the mat rocked in a sawing motion to loosen the hairs.
A kit for medium-coated or short-coated dogs should include a slicker brush or flexible-pin brush. Bony dogs should be brushed with a soft brush or one with blunt bristles. Feathery hairs on the legs, ears, and tail should be combed. A nubby glove or coarse rag is suitable for grooming faces and for stimulating the skin and conditioning the coat on short-coated dogs.
PART 3
SO WHY ALL THESE TOOLS FOR COMBING, BRUSHING
Coats come in a wide range of types and textures. Soft, silky, fine, dense, coarse, straight or curly hair varies immensely, even between pets of the same breed. The prepared groomer will have several varieties of combs and brushes on hand to deal with so many kinds of coatsââ¬â and will know how to use them properly.
For short-haired breeds such as Beagles or Dalmatians, use a rubber brush or a bristle brush. Soft rubber bristles will pull out loose hair. A bristle brush should be fairly stiff and works best when used with the lie of the coat. Bristles move the oils from the skin to the hair shaft as you brush, leaving a shiny, smooth coat. A medium/fine comb will work like a comb used on your own hair, catching and pulling out the loose hair and dirt.
For long-haired dogs that need to be scissored, such as the Bichon Frise or Kerry Blue Terrier, a slicker brush should be used to untangle and remove loose hair. Use a pin brush only if there are no mats. Depending on the hair type, choose a medium/coarse or coarse comb. If the pet is seriously matted, a mat comb or electric detangler may be needed. A curved slicker with stiff pins will untangle more effectively and will pull out more undercoat, but will also require more care in order to not brush-burn the pet.
For breeds with long silky coats, a slicker brush (or, if there are no mats, a pin brush) should be usedââ¬â along with a medium/coarse or a coarse comb to check for any matting in the coat. For a serious matting problem, try a mat comb or a long pin rake.
For double-coated breeds, a number of different brushes can be used: a wire slicker to pull out the loose hair, a pin brush to untangle and smooth, or an undercoat rake or a mat comb to help thin out the undercoat. A moulting comb can also be used to remove loose hair and tidy the outer coat. Depending on the hair type, a medium/fine or a medium/coarse comb should also be used.
For sporting breeds such as Setters and Spaniels, a pin brush can be used to untangle slightly matted coats, and a wire slicker will remove loose, dead hair. A medium/coarse or coarse comb can be used to untangle and neaten the coat. If the coat is seriously matted or tangled, you may need to use a mat comb or a long pin rake. Results often depend not so much on what you use as on the way that you use it. Layering, line brushing, and sectioning are the secrets to humane detangling. Grabbing too much hair and pulling too hard causes pain and discomfort to both the animal and the operator.
Repetitive motion injuries are caused by the same action again and again. Vary the motion only slightly, and damage can be prevented. Part of the job can be accomplished by using a tool that has teeth or bristles set parallel to the handle. The wrist and forearm are now operating in a horizontal position. After a while, switch to an implement designed so that the business end is at right angles to the shaft. The angle has changed, and the arm and wrist are working in a more vertical mode. When using either a regular tool or one of a rake design, always keep the wrist in a neutral position. Select handles that fit your palm. Another option is to try ergonomically designed brushes and combs. They have slightly larger than normal handles, providing a more comfortable grip. Position the body in a way so that the tool can be operated without straining the wrist, elbow or shoulder muscles.
The standby of handlers, pin and bristle brushes, are effective on delicate coats. The fine, flowing (show) hair of Afghan Hounds, Maltese Terriers and similarly coated breeds is preserved by using rubber cushioned pin brushes and natural or synthetic bristle brushes.
"Pat and pull" is a technique for using a slicker brush. No pressure is applied on the down stroke. As the brush stroke comes up from the coat, the fine pins hook up a layer of hair and coax tangles out. Slicker brushes are available in different degrees of hardness and various pin sizes and angles. You will need a selection, and remember that they get a lot of wear. Check them regularly and replace brushes with missing and bent pins. Also replace slickers whenever the pins lose their original amount of resistance. If pins are "tired," you will use more strokes to achieve the same effect, costing unnecessary time and physical fatigue.
Superior machining and better metal alloys make combs that glide through hair and lift it for the master stylist to scissor impeccably. Fine, close teeth are needed to seek out fleas and tiny snags. Thickly matted hair can be separated with sturdy, wide-pinned combs.
When necessary, the groomer has to resort to combs with teeth-bladed edges, which will cut as they are pulled through. Some manufacturers suggest using a sawing, rocking motion. Bladed mat combs and splitters are often seen as the only alternative to shaving.
PART 4
HOW TO SELECT THE RIGHT SHEAR
Selecting shears is one of the most important decisions a groomer has to make. Which shear you select has a major impact on the speed and quality of your work, on the health of your hands, and on your wallet! Here are a few facts to help you choose the styles and features that best suit your needs.
There are three types of shears: straight, curved, and thinning. Groomers most often use straight shears. They come in lengths from 4 1/2" to 12", with 8 1/2" being the most common, all-around shears. Most of your scissoring will be done with these on Bichons, Poodles, puppy cuts on Lhasas, etc. Smaller shears of 6 1/2" to 7 1/2" are very good for use on small dogs, or to trim small areas-inside a toy poodle's hind legs, for instance. Very small shears such as the 4 1/2" are useful for close work around the eyes, or for edging just the tips of prick ears. The 9" to 12" shears are great for a puppy cut on an Old English Sheepdog, or a Standard Poodle.
There are two styles of straight shear in the 8" to 10" lengths. The standard shears have a fairly narrow blade that is suitable for most light or fine coats found on breeds such as Bichons, Lhasas, and Poodles. The second style, called an 88 pattern or Filipino style have a wider blade that is most suitable for heavy or coarse coats such as Old English Sheepdogs, Standard Poodles, Portuguese Water Dogs, and Cocker Spaniels in a field trim. Filipino or 88 shears are also useful for groomers who do a lot of pre-bath scissoring as their wider blades seem to hold an edge longer when used often on dirty coats.
Curved shears also come in a variety of lengths from 4" to 12". You may also choose between having a ball tip or not. Ball tips are considered safer, especially around the eyes and feet. Although a good groomer can certainly scissor any shape with a straight shear, including a curve or circle, most find it easier with curved shears. A toy poodle topknot and tail, or setting the angulation of a Bichon's hock are much easier with a 6" or 7" curved shear, while the barrel of a Standard Poodle will go more quickly with a 10" or 12" curved.
Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other. As the blades meet, hair on top of the teeth is cut while some slips between the teeth and is not cut at all. The more teeth, the more hair is cut each stroke. This slight irregularity produces a much more natural look than a straight scissor cut, making them ideal for most rough terrier-type coats. Thinning shears with 40 or more teeth are usually used for thinning off hair (with the grain) or for any blending work. Thinning shears with less teeth tend to be used more for bulk thinning on very thick coats, going underneath the surface and against the grain. Some thinning shears have teeth on both sides. These are used primarily for bulk thinning, although they are used for blending as well. They tend to be a very safe shear, as they are less likely to nick or pinch the skin.
Shears also are available in bent shank and short shank styles. Bent shank shears have shanks that are slightly offset from the blades. This allows you to scissor over an area without having your hand touch the scissored coat. An example is the 8 1/2" Heritage Bent Shank Shears.
Short shank shears have shanks that are shorter than the blades. Examples are Geib's "J" series, and Saber and Stiletto shears. The short shanks allow you to open your shear very wide with very little hand fatigue, thus scissoring more quickly and smoothly than a standard shear. Short shank styles are ideal for groomers with carpel tunnel syndrome.
There are other factors to consider when selecting a shear along with shear type and length. Various features will affect the weight, feel and performance of the grooming shears. The type of material used to manufacture the shears affects its durability and maintenance requirements. Carbon steel is durable and holds an edge, but must be kept oiled to prevent rust. Stainless steel is a high-quality steel combined with chromium to resist rust. Cobalt steel is a type of hardened stainless steel designed to resist chips and nicks. The steel used in shears is also subjected to sub-zero temperatures during the manufacturing process in order to change the composition of the metal making it harder. Thus, shears that are ice tempered, frozen tempered or cold forged will hold an edge longer. Most shears today are cold forged or ice-tempered.
There are also several types of blade edges from which to choose. Honed and razor edges are precisely sharpened to reduce scissor marks on the coat. Corrugated or Serrated edges have tiny grooves to grip the hair as they cut for non-slip scissoring. Hollow ground edges are ground down inside to reduce the weight and have a finer edge for smoother scissoring with less hand fatigue.
Why buy one of the top of the line shears? Are they really worth the money? Most of the higher end shears are made out of much better quality metal, as well as being handcrafted, balanced, and sharper. This means that you will experience less hand fatigue as the shears open and close much more readily, and you will get a nicer finish as the blades can be honed to a razor sharpness due to the quality of the metal. You will also need to have them sharpened less often as they will hold an edge longer. Most people find that high quality shears are a very worthwhile investment.
Probably the most important factor in purchasing shears is your opinion. The large variety of shears available on the market is the result of wide range of personal preferences existing among grooming professionals. Decide what your price range is, look for a shear within it that is suitable for the type of scissoring that you do most, and get the one that cuts well for you and feels good in your hand. The "best" shear is the one you like that helps you groom comfortably and more efficiently.
A Glossary of Shear TermsAdjusting screw: The screw located where the blades hinge that adjusts how much pressure it takes to open and close the shear. Use a shear pliers tool to adjust the tension.
Anodized: A black finish to improve definition when scissoring white or light-colored coats, especially under fluorescent lights.
Ball Bearing: A system of ball bearings around the pivot that allows the shear to open and close effortlessly.
Ball tip: A blunt, rounded tip at the end of a shear that serves as a built-in safety feature for delicate areas. Usually found on curved shears.
Bent Shank: The shank, or finger hole end of the shear, is slightly offset from the cutting blades. This keeps your fingers out of the hair, preventing you from mussing the coat that you have just scissored to perfection.
Carbon Steel: Type of steel used in shear making. Durable and holds an edge, but needs to be kept dry and oiled, as it may rust.
Coatings: Made of Teflon or plastic, a coating resists surface rust, and a high color or pattern in the coating increases visibility of tools and distinguishes them in busy shops.
Cobalt Steel: Very hard type of stainless steel. Resistant to chips and nicks.
Corrugated/Serrated: Blade edge with tiny ground-in grooves to provide non-slip cutting by holding the hair.
Dial adjuster: A dial on the adjuster screw that allows you to change the shear tension by hand without a shear pliers tool.
Filipino: A wide blade style designed for all-purpose, heavy-duty use.
Hollow Ground: A blade with a ground-down inside that reduces weight and gives a sharper edge, resulting in a softer, smoother cut.
Honed/Razor Edge: Edges that are precisely worked to razor sharpness. Reduces scissor marks in coat.
Ice Tempered/Frozen Tempered/Cold Forged: A shear that has been subjected to sub-zero temperatures at a certain point in the manufacturing process. This changes the composition of the metal so that it is much harder and will hold an edge longer. Twenty years ago it was important to look for this quality in a shear, but today it is so commonplace that some manufacturers do not even mention it in their sales copy.
Offset Handle: Instead of the handle being even on both sides, the finger hole side is shorter, so you don't to have to "reach" as much with that finger.
Short Shank: A shear with a short distance from the finger holes to where the blades cross. Reduces hand fatigue, as blades open wider with little hand movement.
Stainless Steel: A high quality steel combined with chromium and other metals to resist rusting.
88 Style: A wide blade, heavy-duty, all-purpose shear.
PART 5
SHAMPOOS & CONDITIONERS FOR SPECIFIC COAT TESTURES
Although a pet's coat type is mainly a product of its genetic background, environment, and ongoing care, we in the pet styling industry have found that a coat's natural texture and feel can be altered to a certain extent with the use of specific shampoos and conditioners. Knowing the proper products to use starts with determining what we want to accomplish through correction or change.
Human cosmetologists deal with either skin or hair. Pet stylists have the dilemma of dealing with bothââ¬â simultaneously! Attention must be given to each area individually without allowing one to adversely affect the other. Dry, damaged coats will benefit from a mild cleansing shampoo and a protein and emollient based conditioner. Proteins can repair a damaged coat by helping to rebuild the cuticle of the hair shaft. An over oily coat will do well with a deep-cleansing shampoo, e.g., one with d-Limonene. Most medicated shampoos also contain deep-cleansing additives, such as salicylic acid, which will benefit both dry and oily skin conditions. When using a medicated shampoo, be sure to condition the dry coat ends after use. Mild shampoos containing additives such as oatmeal or tea tree oil can be used to soothe irritated skin. Some shampoos contain ingredients to aid in adding texture and to build up a soft coat, while certain conditioners contain humectants designed to "plump up" and add body to a thin coat. Silicones add "slickness" and shine while offering a "dirt-repelling" quality. Oils and emollients restore elasticity and prevent breakage. Additives, like color enhancers and optical brighteners, help round out the bill in coat restructuring products.
Conditioning sprays play an important role in continued coat maintenance and care both in the salon and at home. The use of a conditioning "brush-out" spray will not only speed up the brushing process but will also help eliminate static, preventing coat breakage. The wise professional educates her clientele on these home-grooming tips, since doing so will reduce matting and brush-out time. Less matting and a better conditioned coat means time saved in the grooming process.
The proper and continued use of the correct shampoos and conditioners in the salon and at home will help attain and maintain the ultimate goal, the beautifully groomed pet.